The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has just concluded its 11th annual meeting in Washington, DC, USA. The US textile industry is on the rise and there is concern over implications of the ongoing Asia/Pacific and European trade agreements. Internally, NCTO is still in the first year of the merger of three formerly independent textile organizations.
NCTO is a unique association representing the entire spectrum of the textile sector from fiber to finished textile product. Currently, the organization represents 150 companies, had a 2013 operating budget of $1.5 million, and maintains a staff of 6 full-time plus a full time industry consultant. The mission of NCTO is to focus on creating powerful national and international alliances to advance the interests of the U.S. textile sector.
Auggie Tantillo has been NCTO president for 8 months. Mr. Tantillo is a well-known industry/ government textile veteran in Washington. Early in his career, he served as Deputy Assistant Secretary of Commerce for Textiles, Apparel and Consumer Goods and, prior to his appointment as NCTO president, he was the Executive Director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC).
Steve Warner, publisher of BeaverLake6 Report, interviewed Mr. Tantillo for this report.
BeaverLake6 Report: Can you tell us the state of the US textile industry?
Tantillo: The US textile industry has experienced fair stability and steady growth over the past few years. This important domestic manufacturing industry is the third largest exporter of textile products in the world. Exports of all textile products were nearly $17.9 billion in 2013. Lately, we have seen numerous investments from foreign companies in yarn-spinning plants. A crucial aspect to the attractiveness of building in the US and creating jobs is the Yarn-Forward rule.
BL6: What is the status of the Trans-Pacific Partnership agreement negotiations? It was hoped the agreement would originally be finished by 2012, then 2013 and now it may not be concluded in 2014. Why so slow in getting this done?
Tantillo: Well, we are operating under the assumption it will be done sooner than later. But these types of agreements seem to have their own pace. As more countries become involved, there are more issues which need to be addressed. Vietnam’s inclusion created a concern for us with the Yarn Forward rule. The agreement, though, isn’t just about textiles. Japan’s inclusion has created concerns regarding agricultural products, and these types of other non-textile issues are causing, in part, the slow pace of the negotiations. And, the wildcard for this whole agreement for the US is the Congressional Fast Track authority to pass it. We need it.
BL6: Will Yarn-Forward be included in the agreement, and, if so, will it be a strong rule similar to what we have seen in other US trade agreements?
Tantillo: That’s a good question. We have received every indication that the Yarn-Forward rule will be included in the agreement. We feel it is essential the rule remain strong and comprehensive in its product coverage with its only flexibility being the short supply list. We are pressing for a strong Yarn-Forward agreement similar to the NAFTA/CAFTA agreements. But there is a strong lobbying effort by US apparel importers and retailers to ease up on the requirements. It’s an intense fight right now.
BL6: TPP, from a textile point of view, seems to be only a concern for those supplying the apparel industry. How does the TTP impact the domestic technical textiles industry?
Tantillo: There are major players in the TPP that are significant producers of technical textiles, especially Japan. Vietnam is also becoming a significant exporter of technical textiles.
BL6: What is the status of the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP)? Comparing it to TPP, should the technical textiles industry be more concerned about this agreement?
Tantillo: The 4th round of TTIP negotiations was held in Brussels in March. The European Union is a huge market for industrial textile yarns and fabrics. This agreement will be beneficial from the standpoint of US producers being able to access the European marketplace.
BL6: Are the two agreements similar in scope?
Tantillo: There are some challenges and differences between TTIP and TPP that are a concern for the US textile industry. In TTIP, for example, the EU favors a complicated Fabric-Forward rule as opposed to a Yarn-Forward rule. The EU is also pressing for access to US military contracts which means a weakening of the Berry Amendment. We would resolutely oppose any changes in the Berry Amendment.
BL6: The Textiles Enforcement and Security Act (TESA) recently was re-introduced in Congress. Will it get passed or will it stall?
Tantillo: We are hopeful that it will pass. However, its success is likely tied to larger issues such as The Customs Reauthorization Act. If a bigger customs and trade package moves through Congress, it would give us a much greater probability of getting TESA language adopted.
BL6: What’s the status of the National Defense Authorization Act? Is there anything to be of concern or interest by the technical textiles industry?
Tantillo: It has been enacted and there are some notable textile provisions. Title 1, Section 141, requires budget justification display for personal protection equipment. Title1, Section 146, requires study on 1) procurement and 2) research and development of personal protection equipment plus recommendations on how to improve innovation and competition. And the last significant provision for technical textiles is Title III, Section 352, which revises policy on combat and camouflage uniforms. This policy would require all the services to wear the same camouflage and ACU’s down the road.
BL6: Has any analysis been done on the impact of the Korean-United States trade agreement (KORUS). There was a lot of concern before it passed in 2011.
Tantillo: There has not been an analysis done but there have been reports of companies who have been directly affected, especially in the area of industrial fabrics. There has been substantial growth on the part of Korean exports to the US market.
BL6: What are the priorities for NCTO in 2014?
Tantillo: We have to ensure the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) trade agreement is concluded in a sustainable and fair manner allowing the US textile industry to continue to be a viable player in the global textile marketplace. We have to make sure the Berry Amendment remains intact in the TTIP negotiations.
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In 2018, China's industrial textile industry maintained a relatively rapid growth. The year, though, also found more complex challenges for the industry, including the tariff issues with the US. Thanks to BeaverLake6 Reports' exclusive arrangement with China Textile magazine, we are presenting the English-translated version of the final 2018 report written by the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textile Association (CNITA). The report included information on fiber and material production, plus selected large end-product markets. Click here to read the report. Posted September 3, 2019
NCTO Members Testifying at US International Trade Commission. Surprisingly, there appears to be a little worry the announced new US tariffs on China (Section 301) may be reaching too far with its scope. The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), which has been firmly behind most of the textile-tariffs against China over the last year, is expressing concern the new Tranche Four retaliatory tariffs may affect US imports on products needed by the US domestic textile industry.
[Read the rest of my editorial that takes NCTO to task for its hypocritical "moral" argument supporting the proposed additional products but excluding its industry's suppliers by clicking here.]
Posted June 17, 2019
Despite the increasingly complex industry demands, the Chinese technical textiles market was relatively stable. Nonwovens output increased over last year. Key specific markets such as tire cord also increased in 2018 over 2017. Overall operating income for industrial textiles used in China reached $34 billion. Click here to read the complete summary provided to BeaverLake6 Report by China Textile magazine through our exclusive relationship. Posted February 15, 2019
INDA, the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry, has issued its final report on IDEA19. The event held March 25-27, 2019 in Miami Beach, Fla., USA, attracted 6,500+ participants and 509 exhibiting companies from 75 countries. Show floor space was a record 168,600 square feet, a 9% increase over the previous show.
Surprisingly, the people and exhibitor participation figures are not record numbers. The IDEA16 show in Boston, Mass., USA, attracted 7000+ and 555 exhibitors.
So, why was participation down this year from IDEA16? I think an explanation for the decline is the South Florida location of IDEA19. Click here to read more.
BeaverLake6 Report is pleased to provide an exclusive interview with Li Lingshen, Ph.D., Vice President of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, and President of the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association, the overseeing organization for the technical textiles industry in China. Click here to read the interview.
IFAI Expo 2018 was the first show under IFAI's new CEO/President Steve Schiffman. In a quick conversation on the first day, Mr. Schiffman thought event attendance was on target with the expectation of a 500 increase over the 4500 total participants (counting both exhibitors and visitors) they had in 2017 in New Orleans. Similarly, a conversation with one of the managers of ACMA, a partner in CAMX, said their pre-registration had already topped the 6500 they had last year in Orlando. (Keep in mind, though, the 2017 CAMX show had to be rescheduled from September to December because of Hurricane Irma.) Click here to read more about the shows.
Positive Reviews but Still Uncertainty. On November 16, 2018, two of the US textile industry associations testified before the US International Trade Commission (ITC) in a special hearing to determine the economic impact of the proposed United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA). The leaders of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) and the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) provided statements on how they feel the new agreement will affect their member companies.
The two organizations clearly have different biases; however, in looking over the AAFA and NCTO statements, it appears to me that while the organizations both clearly said they were not offering an endorsement yet of the agreement, they gave general overall approval for USMCA, acknowledging the 1992 North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) needed updating. Both organizations are taking a wait-and-see attitude to more fully look at how the agreement impacts the complex supply chain of textiles and apparel. Click here to read more.
NAFTA Replacement Agreement Negotiated. On October 1, President Donald Trump announced the US, Mexico and Canada had reached an agreement whichreplaces the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) that went into effect in 1994. The new United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) contains provisions and language that has an impact on the technical textiles industry; the most important are 1) a special section covering textiles and apparel and 2) rules of origin that will require 75% of automotive content (under NAFTA 62.5%) be made in North America. Mexico and Canada are the two largest importers of US made technical textiles and the automotive industry is the largest intended end market of these technical textiles. Click here to go to the United States Trade Representative's website and read the "Textiles and Apparel Goods" chapter. Posted October 3, 2018
Are you looking for a quick understanding of the China technical textiles industry? Through our special relationship with China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) and their China Textile publication, BeaverLake6 Report is pleased to post the English-translation of the recently issued "Status Quo of China's Nonwovens and Industrial Textiles Industry, 2017." The report covers the different levels of the industry, geographic export demographics, and forecast the needs in the major end market applications. Click here to read the report in our China Textile website section.
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